There is an island in the Arctic where humans and birds have developed a unique symbiotic relationship. Vigur is an Icelandic island with only three permanent residents– Gísli Jónsson, his wife and their young child. The family farms precious material called eiderdown that comes from ducks. Eiderdown is not made of feathers but of an incredibly soft, insulating plumage the ducks use to keep their eggs warm. Perfectly adapted to Iceland’s severe climate, this down is among the finest natural insulators in the world. Once the nesting season ends, Gísli and his wife carefully collect and clean the down by hand, never harming the birds. The ducks return year after year–they know that Vigur is safe.
The down eventually becomes blankets sought after around the world, some selling for thousands of dollars. Eiderdown can only be gathered in small quantities, only once a year, and only after the birds no longer need it.
Puffins arrive each April in an extraordinary spectacle, sometimes tens of thousands appearing almost at once. This colony is one of the healthiest in Iceland. The family has chosen not to harvest puffins, allowing them to breed freely.
Above us, Arctic terns patrol the skies. These fascinating birds migrate from Antarctica and complete a full circle of the globe each year, always following the light and sleeping while in flight. During nesting season they are fiercely protective, attacking anything that moves. Gísli tells us to carry a stick and hold it high—the terns will always strike the highest point.
When they bought the island the family also inherited an old viking boat. The wooden boat is still seaworthy but demands constant care. Even though we are here in July the winds are fierce, and the weather can shift quickly. Our kayaking guide nervously watches the forecast as we chat with Gísli.
On Vigur, life unfolds according to ancient patterns. Ducks, puffins, and terns rule the land while humans adapt. Soon we have to say good buy to Gísli and the puffins–we better make our way to mainland before the winds make the journey too dangerous.
Written and illustrated for Grand Tour Magazine
January 2026